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My final help-me-build-a-computer thread. Please.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:27 pm    Post subject: My final help-me-build-a-computer thread. Please.    Reply with quote

This is following the last thread; I'm not reviving that one because I selfishly desire your attention. You guys have helped me to learn a ton and given me great recommendations, especially Panoptic and Felix, and I'm really grateful. Nothing's really changed for me in the past six months other than some money coming in, some money going out, some money coming in, some money going out... but right now--really, right now--I have a check clearing for nearly $1100, and I am actually, finally going to buy all my computer parts as soon as it goes through. Don't sigh and walk away; this isn't a reboot, and I've basically taken everything you showed to me in the last thread and walked myself through the store with it. I'd just like you to look things over and give me final recommendations.

New rules and special requests:

1) This computer is a hold-me-over. It is not my dream machine. With luck, I will totally rebuild with all kinds of delicious and expensive things within six months. But I want to feel good with this machine while I'm using it. I want it to be capable of audio and video capture and editing, enjoyable reading and writing sessions, lovely DVD and DIVX playback, and, of course, great gaming. Crysis can fuck itself, but I hope that the parts listed below add up to a pretty high quality time with, you know, Call of Duty 4, Bioshock, and STALKER. It would be nice if I could plan to play some forthcoming games at decent settings as well, but I'm not kidding myself either. It's a budget machine. More than anything else, I'd like you to tell me that my choices and deal-findings fit well together to create a machine that makes sense to this end. For example, could I get by with less power? Have I overdone it with the processor a little bit? Which of the two video cards should I go with?

2) I am not interested in overclocking. This will be my first time building a PC, and I just want to be direct with it and have a straightforward learning experience with a straightforward machine. I understand that overclocking is pretty simple these days, but still, given (1) above--that this is just a hold-me-over--and given my budget constraints, I'm going to save overclocking for my second, future PC-building experience.

3) I will need to transfer data from two older hard drives onto this new one. One of the drives is in a computer that does not turn on any longer; it is from an E-Star machine circa 2001. Will I be able to open up that old box and just plug the drive into my new machine while I'm putting it together? The second older drive is in a currently functioning PC that does not belong to me; I cannot open this one up. It does not, as far as I can tell, have firewire. It does have many USB drives. I do not have room in my budget for crazy external hard drives and other funky devices. My new computer will share its DSL internet with this computer. How can I transfer this data?

4) I'm going to acquire Windows XP with its service packs on CD. Is there anything I need to know about preparing to boot my new PC for the first time and install this OS? I mean, will the DVD-RW drive of my new computer be working when I first turn it on? I don't know about stuff like BIOS. I guess this information will be towards the ends of the several build-your-own-PC guides I've found, right?

5) I need a keyboard and mouse that are good for gaming (so that WASD won't give me claw-hand) but I can't afford a $50 mouse. I guess I need a mouse pad, too--do you PC gamers look for special shapes in those these days? Any suggestions? Also... I don't, like, have adequate furniture, and I'll be using my computer from a sitting position upon a twin bed tucked in a corner (elevated; not a mattress on the floor). Does anyone have experience with this? I'd really appreciate some ideas about how to be comfortable like this. I guess one of those triangle cushions behind my back (at the wall), sitting across the width of the bed, with some kind of a tray across my lap for the keyboard and mouse, and my computer monitor elevated to a comfortable height by boxes and books?

6) As I said, I have a check for about $1100 clearing; however, I want to spend only about $800 on everything. Really, I wanted to spend $700, and maybe I'll get a $15 cheaper hard drive or something, but it looks like it's going to be almost $800, and that's before keyboard, mouse, and any USB cables or triangle cushions. I'm hoping that post-shipping will be $850 at the very, very most, leaving me with like $150 I can spend on games without being totally, insanely irresponsible. Of note is that the monitor's price is contingent upon a $50 refund that I don't know when I'll see. But I am seriously fucking finally buying this shit; if I can only afford one sodding game afterwards then so be it.

I'm so fucking complicated.

Okay! The List!

HARDWARE

Athenatech case with 350W PSU -- $70
OR
X-QPACK2 with 500W PSU -- $100

The question here with these two cases is basically whether or not I can fearlessly and sufficiently power everything below with the cheaper one's 350W.

Foxconn Micro ATX Intel Motherboard -- $50

Super cheap but perfectly functional and fits the Athenatech case. Also fine for the X-QPACK, as I understand.

Intel Core 2 Duo E4500 Allendale 2.2GHz 2M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 65W -- $120

I figured that this would be a good middle-of-the-road choice on the C2D spectrum.

Radeon X1950 256MB 256-bit Video Card -- $118
OR
Radeon 2600XT 512MB 128-bit Video Card -- $110

For that price difference and based upon the advice I received in the older thread, I am inclined of course to purchase the X1950; however, I noticed that it has 256MB to the 2600's 512MB. I don't know how important that is, and I can't seem to find a 512MB X1950 on NewEgg for a price comparison. So which is better? Will I miss that memory if I go with the otherwise clearly superior X1950?

Mushkin 2GB RAM -- $57

There wouldn't be much point in getting more than 2GB RAM with a setup like this, right?

Seagate Barracuda 320GB Hard Drive -- $85

Only $15 more than the 250GB, so I figured that I might as well.

Samsung Black 20X DVDR 8X DVDRW -- $30

Grado SR60 (Open Box) -- $45

These are good, right? Good for gaming, good for music, etc. I know they won't keep the sound in, but that's fine since I'll be using this computer in privacy. Oh, yeah: What will 5.1 sound like with these plugged right into the motherboard? Some shit just doesn't come in stereo these days, and I'm also curious as to whether I can get a decent gaming experience with surround sound in the cans.

Acer 22" Widescreen LCD Monitor 1680x1050, DVI, VGA -- $200 (after rebate)

This is pretty great, right? But one question: Earlier, I was looking at this SCEPTRE monitor with the same resolution but at only 20", and it said it was good for 1080p. Now, at some point while I was sleeping, they invented these things with "p"s on them that have something to do with HD resolution, I gather. There's 1080p, I think there's 720p, maybe 480p... I don't know. I kind of don't care that much right now because I'm not shopping for a tv. I just want to know that I'm getting what I need with that monitor--that I'm not overlooking something that has to do with HD or widescreen technology and that I'm not making a mistake. I haven't bought a screen of any kind for like seven years.

That's it. Plus your recommended keyboard and mouse... unless there are other peripherals or accessories I'm not thinking of here?

Any issues with compatibility?

Cost with Athenatech case and X1950 video card (my current plan): $775
It's not ideal, but it's a pretty damned good job, isn't it? Of course, shipping will add like another fifty...

SOFTWARE

I'd also like to ask for all of your top picks for software. I've been out of it for the last couple years, as I've been using a PC that isn't mine to customize. I've never even added a single Firefox extension. Ever. So please give me some heads up suggestions on stuff.

Speaking of Firefox, shouldn't I download the install and be ready to bring it over to my new computer so that it, you know, has a browser?

I'll want to customize XP. What can I do to safely clean out crap I don't want? And what crap don't I want? For instance, that VLC Media Player program is better to have around than Windows Media Player, right?

I'll also want to make XP more pleasing to the eye--and more functional, as well. There are programs that do this, yes? A company called Stardock comes to mind. It would be nice if I had constant access to my bank account, instant notification of new hacking jobs coming in from the company, that sort of thing.

Best free antivirus? Firewall?

Email (I use gmail, at least for now; is there a software app that can read that?), RSS, newsgroups, etc.

DVD playback.

CD burning.

DVD creation, burning.

Video capture.

Video editing.

Image editing.

I'll probably be okay investigating various audio editing and creating programs on my own, but I'll be happy to hear about anything you guys use.

What's that stuff I heard way back about... what was it.. code, scripts, uh, Greasemonkey or something? What's that all about? Ways to deeply customize your computing and web browsing experience?

I'm not really looking to do complex stuff like partitioning my hard drive (why would I?), but I guess I'll want some system tools like for general maintenance.

I don't know what else. Any kind of software anyone wants to recommend.

CONCLUSION

I'm going to stop there. I think that exhausts all of my needs. As you can see, I hope, I'm pretty much ready to go. I'll be buying all that shit like Thursday or Friday, so I'm looking for a final check and advice. Anything you can do to help me find answers to the little questions strewn throughout would be fantastic.

I swear, this is not a drill. This is not like the last two times I made computer planning threads over the past year. I'm either putting this machine together within the next two weeks or spending that money on a cheap weapon of some kind that can put a bullet in my brain.

I'm very grateful for any help from before or still to come. This is a big deal. Thank you.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:40 pm        Reply with quote

Felix wrote:
you can do everything you'd reasonably want with $800 (including a monitor)


I don't really get how you can say that and then encourage me to spend another hundred or so on the processor and video card, bringing me to $900 before peripherals. And now that I know the 9600 is out there and only $170, how can I not throw it in? But how can I afford it?

It sounds like the monitor I picked isn't so hot? What's *VA? Panoptic, you recommended a 19" Samsung monitor that actually costs more than the 22" I found--why? Is it just a really good screen?

Also, why would you recommend that I downgrade the processor?

Felix wants me to get a more expensive processor, and Panoptic wants me to get a cheaper one. This is about overclocking, right?

Guys, the reason why I said I didn't want to overclock is basically that I don't want to re-choose all my components based on their overclocking potential, and I know that planning to overclock is going to force me into a bigger case that can take heat, a higher wattage PSU, possibly a heat sink... It's going to cost me more rather than less.

Panoptic, it's really cool of you to put together a whole list based on what I'm looking for, but I can't possibly spend $931. I mean, fuck, I sure want to now, but I'd have to find that money in the next few days. Maybe I can hint my Grandmother into sending it to me, or maybe I'll unexpectedly see a fast check on that invoice I just emailed out. But it's not likely. I know that I have this much money, and I know when and what my next dependable income is, and based on that I'm barely comfortable spending around $800 if I plan to buy a game or two. And I'm really looking at spending $850 because that monitor's got a $50 off rebate that'll take however long to get back to me.

So you've got to understand that I don't give a shit about not planning well for the future with this machine. I really, really don't care if all the money I put into this hardware is lost in six months because I decide to (and can afford to) build a Great computer from scratch. This is for now. I mean, fuck, this is for six months ago when I didn't go in, and it's for the six months before that. I need this, I have to make the very best that I can from my budget, and after that I really don't care if there's a time bomb in it set to go off a year from today.

So how come, in that list, Pan, you've got a DVD-ROM as well as a DVD-RW drive? Why would I need both? Doesn't the RW do everything the ROM does and more?

Cuba, I didn't know those devices were that cheap. I'll have to keep that in mind, thanks.

I keep going around in circles; it's going to make me insane. Maybe I can sell some shit. Some World of Darkness, Vampire, and Mage books? A flatscreen monitor from 2001 with a few nicks on the screen? I've got a load of empty slim cd cases. Maybe I can sell those.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:09 pm        Reply with quote

WAIT. My Grandmother seems to want to send me $300 for computer parts.

That will, like, totally change everything. I don't know what to do at all now. Let me tentatively say that I'm fine with a $1000 total budget, including monitor, fancy keyboard + mouse, and all the fixin's (like a lap tray, maybe?). I'll update later when I know for sure on the budget.

Thanks, Donny. I think I'm pretty satisfied with my options for transferring data from old drives now. I should be able to network the newer one, and I'm getting the vibe that, one way or the other, I'll be able to hook the old drive into the new computer temporarily.

Don't think I can use the PSU from the e-star because I'm pretty sure the PSU is what's preventing the e-star from turning on. It's probably very weak, anyway.

I still don't understand motherboards. I mean, I think I get most of the stuff pretty well, but I don't know anything about how one motherboard differs from the next. Why, for example, would someone buy a fancier mobo when he could pick up a $50 micro thing?

I'm also confused about the power requirements for cards--what do you mean about buying a power adapter? How would a power adapter change the wattage coursing through the PC?
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:12 pm        Reply with quote

Felix wrote:
internisus wrote:
Felix wrote:
you can do everything you'd reasonably want with $800 (including a monitor)


I don't really get how you can say that and then encourage me to spend another hundred or so on the processor and video card, bringing me to $900 before peripherals.


because i saved you $50 with the removal of a sound card, and because "peripherals" realistically should cost all of $40!


I'm confused. I never had a sound card. Are you talking about the headphones? Those are pretty important!

My internet connection is kind of disappointing when it comes to downloading stuff and using bittorrent, so I don't see myself pirating games much in the near future. Besides, I find Steam really attractive and kind of want to buy most of my games through it.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:19 pm        Reply with quote

Felix wrote:
you silly bastard, don't waste $300 that you don't have because your grandmother is suddenly sending it to you.

the point is that my recommendations don't change one iota based on how much money you think you have. all along i've been recommending to you the computer that i would build myself, if i were to build a computer right now. it's very economical, and very, very well-performing. please. christ.


Dude, your recos are the ones I am and have been leaning toward. But you want (and I want) me to get the 9600 and a fresher C2D, and that was going to break my budget. More than that, with those, and especially if I plan to overclock, I'm going to need more power and possibly a heatsink, right? And overclocking means I need a better mobo, yes?

Joe, I'm lost, man. You're talking about the Samsung Panoptic suggested compared to the Acer I listed, right? But the Samsung's recommended resolution is 1440x900. And I don't see anything about it having 1080p, and it doesn't have DVI either.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:39 pm        Reply with quote

SplashBeats wrote:
one thing: if you plug your headphones directly into onboard sound, you're going to notice a faint buzz over everything. this is a problem with cheap onboard sound.


Woah! Not, not okay! Audio is really important to me, whether I'm watching a DVD, playing a game, or listening to music, and that is not okay at all. I don't have an amp anymore; what can I do about this? Will a better mobo or the addition of a cheap sound board fix it?

Also, what should I expect in terms of surround sound in headphones like that? And what if I find them too bass-heavy? Will I be able to tweak the PC's sound output?

It's fine that they're not very portable phones. Uncomfortable might become a problem, but I'll try 'em out--I used to have Senn HD600s that became uncomfortable over time, so you never know.

Re: Acer v. Samsung, if I can just optimize the monitor one time, get the image just right, and keep those settings, why not go for the Acer with its DVI, higher resolution, and bigger size? And neither of these monitors have 1080p, I think, so what is that all about and am I missing something? I don't have any fucking blu-ray discs or anything. My DVDs are just DVDs. I've never owned an HD-TV. I don't know about this shit.

Oh, before I forget: now that I'm looking at a better processor and video card team, do I want more than 2GB RAM?

Panoptic wrote:
Looking at the list again, it can probably be trimmed down a bit more... Go with the QPACK instead of the separate case/PSU and save $30 there, drop one of the optical drives, swap out the 8800 for a 9600, and swap out the motherboard for an SFF one, and get a basic optical mouse instead... Puts that list at about $805.


This is pretty much where my head is at--though I still don't understand the mobo difference--and I'm thinking why not go for the E6550 while I'm going for the 9600 and just have the computer I really wanted from the start? I mean, that's going to be a machine I can really live with, I think.

And the QPACK's 500W is sufficient when I go in for overclocking?
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:42 pm        Reply with quote

SplashBeats wrote:
1680x1050 is below 1080p, which is 1920x1080


fuck me, so that's what it means

well alright then! There's no special significance to the 1080p grail; it's just a pretty damned high resolution. I'm fine missing out on that.

DVI is far superior to VGA at any resolution, right?

Oh, yeah--Pan, I am well-accustomed to copying discs by writing images to the hard drive. And speed's no big deal for writing--not since my old days when I used to burn fifty copies of some cd I had made on a computer that couldn't do anything else while I waited. I prefer to have just the one optical drive, yeah.


Last edited by internisus on Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:45 pm; edited 1 time in total
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:02 pm        Reply with quote

Felix wrote:
internisus wrote:
More than that, with those, and especially if I plan to overclock, I'm going to need more power and possibly a heatsink, right? And overclocking means I need a better mobo, yes?


nope! that's what i wanted to clarify!

just about any but the most basic of mobos (or any event, both the one you linked in your initial post and the one i linked above) can do basic overclocking. and the reason i keep mentioning that c2d's overclock so painlessly is because they do! as you may or may not know (i didn't before my first experience with this stuff), all (but the cheapest) processors come with a more-than-decent-enough stock heatsink, and refer to my above post re: power supply issues.

the end result is that (once again), a machine with a mid-to-high-end videocard, one optical drive and one hard drive, and a slightly overclocked c2d realistically shouldn't exceed 300w, ever. 350 is your buffer, and it's a safe one. the qpack is a great alternative if you forsee yourself ever wanting to a) overclock further, b) take an -8 or -9 series video card, or c) install another hard drive, but otherwise - i swear - it's not necessary.

and sorry if i blew up at you!

PS: yes, DVI is always better, and you won't need more than 2gb any time in the next two years if you have no desire to go to vista.


Awesome, awesome!

Oh, it's cool, man--you know I dig your idealism. I'm not looking to go nuts, but now that I have the money to do it I'm looking to stray from your flock a bit in the main brute strength areas, I think.

So, okay. This PC is one that I'm going to be pretty goddamned happy with, I think. I'm going to feel good about growing it. I think I'm going to lean towards the X-QPACK2 to play it safe with the power and to give me some room. But I might switch back on this. Felix, I get it if you think the 500W v. 350W is silly and unnecessary, but it's just a $30 issue, and if that's the most ridiculous choice I make then I'm pretty pleased.

Definitely going with the 9600.

E6550 or 1333fsb conroe? If I go for the E6550, am I paying for power that no current software is going to really make use of? Diminishing returns and all that?

Probably going to get the Acer monitor and just put on Lost and tweak the picture 'till I'm happy with it. It will come with DVI cables, right? And my 9600 will make good use of them, I'm sure?

What exactly is the difference between the Gigabyte and Foxconn motherboards? Or this one? Are any of these better than the others for clean sound output?
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:09 pm        Reply with quote

Panoptic wrote:
Yeah, a $20 Sound Blaster will give your audio a cleaner path and more power, so if you're going directly to headphones and not through an amp of some sort, that'd be a nice upgrade. Joe: what's the impedance on the SR60's, anyway? They pretty easy to drive?


Oh, man. I didn't expect a sound card to be so cheap. That's fantastic. Can you guys give me recommendations for a solid but cheap sound card that would be a good combination with the SR60s?

I'm generalizing the rest of your post as agreement and validation, Pan; I think these parts are getting narrowed down. Thinking fast, only which processor and which motherboard remain as major questions... then I've got to actually pick stuff out with links and calculate a new total.

I don't suppose anyone's given any thought to how I can best feel comfortable sitting on a bed with a keyboard and mouse on my lap? They must make... something for that situation. I just don't know where to look.



Oh, shit. Important: Any real difference between the Acer and Samsung experiences concerning a little sunlight through the ol' windows?
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:13 pm        Reply with quote

SplashBeats wrote:
internisus: i have a 2.1 speaker system with a little headphone plug on the volume dongle. this mostly filters out the noise. i don't think getting a better motherboard will really solve this? i haven't had a soundcard in years nor have i really had any desire to hook my headphones straight to my computer so i am probably ill equipped to answer all your questions on this!


No worries, thanks all the same. I really have nothing in the way of speakers, etc. since poverty forced me to sell my headphones-based audio rig. All I've got is a discman and... hold on... Sony MSR-V150 headphones that I've been using for everything over the past year or so. After my HD600s? Ugh. So I'm expecting the Grados to be a godsend. Actually, I've never even tried a pair of Grados. I've read many comparisons to Sennheiser, though, and I think it will be interesting.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:23 pm        Reply with quote

man that does not even make sense
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:58 am        Reply with quote

Toptube wrote:
btw, you can fit a real power supply in that X-Qpack. I personally wouldn't even connect antything better than an Athlon XP to the Q-pack's power supply. Make sure to get a modular power supply and a shorter optical drive like the mega awesome LG GSA-H62NK.


That optical drive is well-reviewed and inexpensive, so I'm fine with that, but what are you talking about with the power supply? You're saying that I can't safely power a (modestly) overclocked E6550 on a 500W PSU?

I'm going to make a call to two Circuit City stores within a half hour of here when they open this morning. That monitor sounds like an amazing deal. But I need to finish putting together a current list and check my total cost first.

My check has cleared, so I'd like to buy all this shit today.

While I'm sitting here comparing motherboards, can someone tell me if there's any reason why a mobo can't be upgraded just like any other part of a machine down the road?

That ExtremeTech website seems to like Vista. Home Premium, to be exact. Do we have a lot of Vista users here? It's supposed to be past its growing pains, right? There's probably a thread about this already.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 12:41 pm        Reply with quote

Okay, then. I just saw some power consumption charts and I'm very, very not worried about having enough juice. Enough with that.

And forget Vista.

I get the impression that a motherboard is sort of the heart of the computer, but surely they improve over time just like any other component and should be swapped out for better parts eventually as you change your machine gradually over time, right?

Felix, I'm not going to have any space problems with an X-QPACK2, am I? I know it requires a microATX mobo, but there won't be an issue with a video card, will there?

As long as I choose a motherboard whose max is 4MB RAM, I don't see any rationale for having a larger case than that. Under what realistic circumstances would I find a strong need to change to a larger case or have a non-micro motherboard? The only thing I can imagine is if my cooling options in the small case become insufficient.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 12:46 pm        Reply with quote

Oh, shit! We need to talk about game pad things and joysticks!
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 12:58 pm        Reply with quote

Here's another stupid question. I looked around at reviews and options and I guess that the Turtle Beach sound card looks good. Only thing I want to be sure of is that it has direct output for stereo rather than 5.1. Either mini or 1/4 is fine. I just can't tell from looking through the specs.

I'd also really like to know whether this card will give me options to somehow simulate the surround qualities of 5.1 channels within stereo headphones. I kind of figure that sort of thing would be standard, but I'd like to make sure. I have many DVDs that lack stereo sound options, and I... have no idea what sound output options are like in PC games these days.

I wonder whether 5.1 converted to stereo would be better than sound originally mixed for stereo. Probably not.

Oh, and will this sound card fit in a SFF case? Will it be possible to have the audio jacks on the front of the X-QPACK2 go to the sound card and not to the straight mobo out?
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 1:07 pm        Reply with quote

Here's a great deal on RAM--2GB for $26.50 after rebate.

"Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400 2GB Kit DDR2-800 XMS2-6400 Xtreme Performance Memory"

There's no reason not to go with this, right?
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 2:15 pm        Reply with quote

I need somebody to tell me why there are so many different versions of the same video card (Geforce 9600GT) and pick the one I should buy from this list, please.

X-QPACK2 with 500W PSU -- $90
ASUS P5K-VM LGA 775 Intel G33 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard -- $110
Intel Core 2 Duo E6550 Conroe 2.33GHz 4M shared L2 Cache -- $170
Geforce 9600GT video card -- ~$175 (haven't picked which one yet)
Seagate Barracuda 500MB hard drive -- $120
Samsung DVD-RW drive -- $30
Corsair 2x1MB DDR2 RAM -- $26.50 (after rebate)
Turtle Beach RIVIERA sound card -- $30
Grado SR60 headphones -- $50 after shipping
LG L246WP 24" LCD -- $295 after tax (if I can find it at Circuit City)
Logitech keyboard -- $27
Logitech G5 mouse -- $50

Total -- $1173.50 (plus shipping on some items)




That didn't work right. I'm not sure I can live with spending more than $1000 on this. Well, that was the ideal version; now to make cuts.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 2:24 pm        Reply with quote

Yeah, I'm thinking I'll go with this motherboard instead. If someone could compare the two for me, that would be very helpful.

I can also take off $40 by going with the 320GB hard drive.

Any suggestions for a quality gaming mouse that doesn't cost $50?

Honestly, I do have a mouse and keyboard from that 7-year-old machine, but they're really pieces of crap. Actually, I think I'll go dust them off and prod them a bit; if I can take both the keyboard and mouse off that list and go with the cheaper motherboard (without regret), I should be pretty happy.

So how do I check to make sure that everything's compatible and such?

Also, WTF, Circuit City should have opened 30 minutes ago.
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 4:07 pm        Reply with quote

Okay, none of the Circuit City stores in my area have that LG monitor anymore. The Westinghouse is reported sold out on the website, and it's too damned expensive anyway.

I'm going back to the Acer at $250 minus $50 mail-in rebate. Any last-minute efforts to sway me should be made in the next six or so hours; I'm going to buy all this stuff tonight for sure.

I'm assuming that I can get as nice a picture out of the Acer with some one-time tweaking as I would see on the Samsung. If I'm wrong, please tell me. The Acer has DVI, a higher native resolution, and 3" more screen space, so I think it's the better buy unless I'll find it difficult or impossible to match the Samsung's quality after playing with contrast and everything. I can't just demo these screens, so I'm relying on your experience, gang.

Edit: I might actually buy the Acer at NewEgg, trading the $50 rebate for $20 off immediately. I know, that's completely ridiculous, but I'm very here-and-now about money.

I also notice that it's very popular with NewEgg customers--moreso even than the Samsung.

Edit2: oh shit what does this mean

Quote:
Does not provide true 16.7m color support. Uses 6-bit color circuitry which allows only 220K colors/pixel. Hardware dithering allows for false 16.7m color displays.


Edit3: oh fuck oh god

Quote:
Careful calibration is required to get accurate color. Still exhibits some banding on gradient tests when gamma and contrast are set properly. Light bleeding on top and bottom center, although only noticeable during static black or very dark pictures. Slightly uneven lighting also seen across entire panel, again only during still dark picture.


Edit4: oh jesus why

Quote:
The only con is that there is a slight backbleed, only visible when playing a dark game like Biohock... Not that bad.
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 5:17 pm        Reply with quote

Sushi K wrote:
Both those MoBOs only have one PCIX16, but if you don't care then I don't care. If anything the second one has built in video that you don't need.


Does that just mean I can't use two video cards in tandem? I read about that when I looked up CrossFire a little bit ago; I don't think I'll ever have a need to do that.

Sushi K wrote:
The reason you can't upgrade a MoBo is because the difference between the two (usually the wildly different chipsets) makes it so windows won't boot and a complete reinstall of windows is required.


That just sounds like an inconvenience, not a real problem.

And if no CrossFire/SLI capability is the only thing that would stop me from getting the cheaper motherboard, I'm all over it. Is there anything else I should know?

Sushi K wrote:
That 6-bit color worry me though since most video cards are 32-bit last time I checked.

6-bit meant that the monitor can make 2^6 different colors at the same time or 220k
while the video card wants to make 2^32 different colors


Woah, where do you see this specification? Is that for real? I was only really worried about the light bleed showing when the screen is dark, but that sounds like a major issue.

Felix wrote:
at the end of this long and winding road (can't help making that ref whenever possible, lame as it is) i must say i'm glad to see you building about 80% of the machine that i'd build myself!


I'm glad you feel that way, since I rather thought I had deviated quite a bit from your plan for me, actually. I've spent all this long time trying to feel out a middle road (more roads) between your and Panoptic's computer-building philosophies and testing different executions of that for cost. I'm very happy and excited about this spec sheet here.

X-QPACK2 with 500W PSU -- $90
GIGABYTE GA-G31M-S2L LGA 775 Intel G31 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard -- $67
Intel Core 2 Duo E6550 Conroe 2.33GHz 4M shared L2 Cache -- $170
Geforce 9600GT video card, Superclocked edition -- $180
Seagate Barracuda 320MB hard drive -- $80
Samsung DVD-RW drive -- $30
Corsair 2x1MB DDR2 RAM -- $26.50 after rebate
Turtle Beach RIVIERA sound card -- $30
Grado SR60 headphones -- $50 after shipping
Acer 22" Widescreen LCD Monitor 1680x1050 with DVI -- $200 after rebate
Logitech keyboard -- $27
Logitech G5 mouse -- $50

Total -- $1000.50 (plus shipping on some items)



Fuckin' A. What a great bunch of junk for a thou.

What's left to worry about here?

I'm still open to mouse and keyboard suggestions. They're clearly in budget now. And I still need might have to buy some sort of meta-furniture.
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 5:52 pm        Reply with quote

Sushi K wrote:
!Almost forgot!
Silver Thermal Compound!
Holy Crap that could have been bad without this stuff. All you need is a pea sized dab.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100007
Spend the $5 and get the good stuff.


Huh. Well, why not?

Someone has this to say about that 9600:

Quote:
Its very long!! I was amazed at how long the card was! So make sure you have room.


Will that be a problem in the X-QPACK2?

Sushi K wrote:
And maybe a better heat sink while you're at it. You said you plan to overclock right?


Yeah, I do, but I can't afford (or fit?) a heat sink, and this case has a temp readout, so I'll watch myself once I know what to do and what to look for to be safe. From what most have said, it doesn't seem like I'll have a problem. And if I do, I don't mind not overclocking. Though the 9600 I'm buying is factory overclocked, so maybe I won't have a choice on that part.
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:07 pm        Reply with quote

Just so you guys know, the computer that I've been using for a long time now--the computer that I used to play HL2 and Episode 1--is an emachine with the following specifications:

AMD Sempron Processor 3300+ (2.0 GHz, 1600 MHz System Bus, 128 KB L2 Cache)
DVD/CD-RW Drive: 16x Max Read/48x Max Writer
80 GB ATA Hard Drive
512 MB DDR SDRAM
nVISIA GeForce 6100

I still don't know much, but even I can make some wide-eyed comparisons to those numbers. 128 KB L2 Cache in this processor vs. a 4 MB shared L2 Cache in the C2D. I don't have more than 20 GB to myself on this fucking hard drive, and I'm a media fiend. 512 MB DDR(1) ROFL. 6100! 6100!!!
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:25 pm        Reply with quote

Another reviewer said:

Quote:
you need 26A load capability on your +12V rail


Is that information available for the X-QPACK2's PSU?

SplashBeats wrote:
you could just get a standard ATX motherboard and case, you know.


With an included 500W PSU? And... all that empty space will make me feel bad.


Last edited by internisus on Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:26 pm; edited 1 time in total
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:27 pm        Reply with quote

Kappuru wrote:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104178

this mouse is ten bucks cheaper and is awesome.

9600gt will fit in a qpack, as an 8800gt does fine.


Awesome!

Quote:
I love the ""on the fly"" resolution changing switches. It's nice to have a quick ""fast twitch"" response that you can easily switch on the fly for a slower, higher res response for sniping.


That sounds so cool! Thanks!
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:44 pm        Reply with quote

internisus wrote:
Another reviewer said:

Quote:
you need 26A load capability on your +12V rail


Looks like it's 16A:



Do you think this is reliable information? Is it likely that this PSU can't handle the 9600?
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:26 pm        Reply with quote

Toptube wrote:
SFF cases cost extra for no reason other than that they can. you could save $40-$50 by getting a standard sized coolermaster case like the one in that article I linked on page 1.

also keep in mind that when people usually talk about being able to build a computer for only X amount of money, they aren't including speakers, monitor, and peripherals into the mix. If you want to keep in that $800 range, something is gonna have to give.

*oh, ok so you can live with $1000? swap the case (-$50) get a cheaper $25 or less mouse (-$25) and get a $10 keyboard (-$17)

then maybe live with a smaller hardrive.


Well, why? Yeah, I could do that, but if I swap the case I'll need to buy a case and a power unit, and I doubt that will bring me to an equal total cost. What problem would I be solving by swapping for a regular-sized case, exactly?

I'm going to purchase everything in about eight hours, so I really, really need to know: Do I have a power problem here? Is that 500W PSU going to flake out on the C2D or the 9600 Superclock? If I don't overclock? If I do?

Also, the 320 GB is the smaller hard drive. I'd prefer to take the 500 GB. I really don't want to compromise any further on the hard drive. I'm not being crazy; I'm a pack-rat and a media fiend, and I'll put it to very good use.

In addition to all this stuff, I'm going to need to spend a little more for some sort of cushion and for a bean-bag-bottom-keyboard-tray-top thing. And I haven't found them yet, so I don't know what they will cost.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:48 pm        Reply with quote

internisus wrote:
I'm going to purchase everything in about eight hours, so I really, really need to know: Do I have a power problem here? Is that 500W PSU going to flake out on the C2D or the 9600 Superclock? If I don't overclock? If I do?


Toptube, I went and read what you had to say about the Qpack PSU in the older thread; generally, it sounds like, if my power is insufficient somehow, I'll notice it, but I have no clue what that will be like. If this is a case of performance kind of stuttering oddly in games while I'm overclocking, in which case I could be like "hey my PSU is not doing the job so let's stop overclocking", then I think I'm fine trying out the stock PSU and just being a little more wary.

But if we're talking about a possibility that one or more components could be damaged due to insufficient power in the face of my relentless demand or that the computer will start shutting itself off or that the computer will shut off three seconds after starting to boot or that the computer just won't fucking work from the start, then I obviously don't want to make this buy.

I just need to understand what kind of a risk I am taking by sticking with the Qpack's stock PSU. I totally don't care if, in three months, I start seeing a need to buy a better and totally bitchin' PSU to replace the stock. I just fucking want to be happy for the next three months. I'll take four if ya got em.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 12:21 am        Reply with quote

I just found this monitor, which seems like a slightly better version of the one I was about to buy. The only differences I notice are 800:1 vs. 700:1 contrast ratio and built-in speakers. This new contender has a silver frame and is worth $10 more, but the savings counter that and offer it for the exact same price. I don't care about or even want built-in speakers, and a silver frame is less preferable to black. Should I stick with the original or get this one instead?

I guess the most important question is whether the higher contrast ratio is better and worth putting up with a silver border.
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 12:32 am        Reply with quote

Toptube wrote:
If you do get the Q-pack, I would highly suggest grabbing that LG burner that I linked, unless the one you already have picked out is a shorter drive as well.


You mean the LG GSA-H62NK? I looked it up on NewEgg and decided it was my first choice (most people seem to think that all these optical drives are virtually interchangeable these days, so I went with your preference), but it's sold out. So I found a different one that seems well-liked.

What constitutes a "shorter" drive? They both say 5.25" for "form factor" in specs.

It's odd; you seemed to feel that the Qpack stock PSU was more reliable when you wrote in the older thread:

Quote:
also, be weary of the power supply that the Q-pack comes with. its not the shittiest power supply, but its not top quality either. since you are not overclocking, it should be fine. but if you feel like your system isn't running as well as it should (use some benchmarks and compare to the internet), that power supply is the first thing I'd look at.


Well, maybe not more reliable, but you just sound much more full of warning now.
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:21 am        Reply with quote

Toptube wrote:
a shorter drive means physically, from front to back, it is shorter. check the dimensions for the drive. If newegg doesn't list them, the manufacturer's site will, which newegg links directly to.


The dimensions I found are:

Samsung (the one I'm buying) -- 1.65" Height x 5.83" Width x 6.69" Depth
LG (the one that's out of stock) -- 1.63" Height x 5.75" Width x 6.5" Depth

It's not quite as small, but it's very close, so I'm just going to go with it.

I'm loading up my shopping cart now. The Acer I was going to buy switched to free shipping shortly after I found that silver-border one with the higher contrast ratio, so I'm going to keep the original choice.

And I'm sticking with the Qpack's stock PSU for now; next check I get in, maybe I'll buy that 500W Antec earthwatt right off. And I probably won't get into overclocking so soon as that. It won't be a problem to swap the PSU out, will it? I'll have to check the dimensions first, of course.
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:50 am        Reply with quote

oh man that is a lot of tax =(

Is it pretty easy to find RAM at local stores? I might wait until next week to buy that.
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 12:46 pm        Reply with quote

I was going to get this for $26.50 after rebate, but I literally don't have enough money to buy everything right now. I'll just have to buy RAM at a store next week when I get my next check; I won't want to wait for it to ship once I've received all these other parts. The RAM is the only thing I'm leaving off; I figure it will be easy to come by.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 1:02 pm        Reply with quote

Okay, that's it. It's done. I bought everything I need except the RAM. Now to browse Steam and think about game prices.

Thank you all very much for your help! I'll be sure to use this thread to talk about post-op matters such as "wow this computer chip is really neat" or "zomg I can't believe how amazing it is to browse the web in widescreen." And possibly "I can't figure out how to build the computer help =(" but we'll see.

I'm kind of depressed now. It's the guilt of spending money.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 1:07 pm        Reply with quote

Oh, awesome, Bioshock finally came down from $50 to $30. Unfortunately, CoD4 is kind of the FPS I'm most itching to play. I'll just have to "bide my time" with STALKER, Bioshock, Portal, and HL2: Episode 2. Shouldn't be too bad a time.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 1:10 pm        Reply with quote

WTF, Episode 2 is $30 and Portal is $20. Doesn't Valve have a way to buy these games without paying the full cost of the Orange Box?
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 4:52 pm        Reply with quote

Man. For some reason, newegg claimed that my bank's payment authorization failed, but my bank says they never got the request. So I made a mistake somewhere, I guess. It's weird.

Anyway, I've got to place the order again now, but I think I'm going to swap out the keyboard and mouse for some RAM because I'll be able to buy a keyboard and mouse at a local store for not-too-insane prices (right?), even if they aren't totally ideal models.

I'm pissed about the Orange Box. I might actually pirate Portal. Fuck Valve.

Also, I'm thinking about giving EVE another shot. That'll be a hell of a lot of bang for my buck, and I'd like to see it on a nice computer/monitor instead of this pile I've been using. I'll just take another 21-day trial and hope that the skill system doesn't depress me too much now that I'm ready for it.
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shafer sephiroth


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:24 pm        Reply with quote

Ha! Maybe later. I'm also downgrading to the Seagate Barracuda SATA 250GB w/ 8MB Cache. That's basically Portal bought right there.

Any ideas where to shop for keyboard and mouse locally? I'm not sure right now whether I want to get the same models I had picked out, but I'd at least like to know a good bet for cheap but not too crappy stand-ins. Circuit City's a bit far away. We have Best Buy, Target, a few small place, and I don't know what else.

I'm going to have all the cables I'll need included with stuff like the motherboard and case, right?
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:39 pm        Reply with quote

psiga wrote:
Dunno if you're willing to dick around with rebates, but: http://www.techbargains.com/tellafriend2.cfm/114773


I switched to this RAM to keep it all in Newegg and not worry about additional shipping timing v. charge quandary on the Corsair deal I was going to do. So thanks for that, brother.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:21 pm        Reply with quote

The new order's also failing to get in touch with my bank to make the transaction for some reason. I've never seen this happen before. I spoke to two different customer service reps; the first checked my numbers over the phone and resubmitted the payment info, and after I got another failure email the second one told me that she can't really do anything other than resubmit again. But after 24 hours of failures they'll do a manual submission, which probably means they'll actually call my bank.

Fuckin' weird. Not killing me though, because if this stuff ships Monday it'll be perfect timing to get it maybe Thursday as I'll have just finished some work.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:18 pm        Reply with quote

Toptube wrote:
debit card?


Yes, it is, but I use it as a credit card all the time just like this. It also makes me money!
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 12:22 am        Reply with quote

Okay, so, my friend is very, very strongly encouraging me to cancel my order and buy a pre-fab machine, which I can then supplement with one or two improvements. There are many excellent deals on such machines at this forum. So right now I'm torn.

Also, here is a fantastic deal I think on an EVGA 8800GT with 512MB. $190 with Google Checkout. Shipping is free, and it's only $10 more than the superclocked 9600 in the order that's stuck on hold right now. Should I get that instead?
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