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My final help-me-build-a-computer thread. Please.
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SplashBeats
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 1:48 pm        Reply with quote

guardian: touch grounded metal before working so you discharge static electricity safely
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DonMarco
graphics fucker


Joined: 06 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:02 pm        Reply with quote

Or! Get yourself an anti-static wrist wrap. Radio Shack may also have them. Clip the alligator end to the metal frame of the case and the wrist strap goes snugly around your wrist. If you need me to repeat this, I will.

SplashBeats wrote:
guardian: touch grounded metal before working so you discharge static electricity safely

If you were slapping in a RAM module and nothing else, discharging yourself once would be fine. But extended periods it would be faster and safer to permanently ground yourself. Every sway of your body, every inch your clothing moves you are building a static charge.
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Panoptic



Joined: 05 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 4:51 pm        Reply with quote

I would assume new drivers would be part of the refurbishing process on the headphones, regardless of whether or not they were damaged.

Also, unless you have one of those all-in-one plugs for the front header connectors like Asus boards (power/reset and your power/hard drive LED's), I'd recommend putting them on your motherboard before putting the board into the case if the cables they give you are long enough, contrary to what the guide says. Note that polarity of the connectors matters on the LED's, but not the switches, so if the LED's don't light up, it's usually just a matter of flipping the connectors over (some cases/boards have poorly marked grounds/hot conductors - check the manual).
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 5:30 pm        Reply with quote

Felix wrote:
this is what drives me nuts about you; go beat up your next door neighbor and take their mousepad. it's not the sort of thing you itemize, for chrissakes.


Yeah, I know it seems silly, but I don't know anybody in the area that I can beat up, and I really don't know what happened to my old one. And it's the kind of thing I itemize because I'm fairly broke now, things are crazy for me this week, and I want to have everything I need without a doubt before the weekend so I can fucking relax and enjoy this. It is ridiculous, I know, but it helps me to itemize even small things.

CubaLibre wrote:
Make sure you do the EVE free trial first. Don't blow money on a subscription you'll ultimately regret.


Oh, I plan to. I did a trial like half a year ago, but if I can I'm going to take the Steam 21-day trial and pay a subscription fee near the end of it.

Panoptic wrote:
I would assume new drivers would be part of the refurbishing process on the headphones, regardless of whether or not they were damaged.


Huh, okay. That does make sense, and the characteristics of the sound do feel to me like they need to open up or richen, so hopefully I will see an improvement over the next few weeks. For the price, I'm happy enough as it is, too. I think I understood what you said about the header connectors, but I'm pretty sure that the QPACK case is not going to have connectors that reach that far.

Ew? I just called Radio Shack: No anti-static wrist strap, cheapest mouse pad is $10, and cheapest router is $50. Sons of bitches. Gotta try IEI now. Edit: That was a complete wash. They got nothing. I... don't know where I can go to get a wrist strap? Any help?

I'm kind of surprised that the thing I need to ground myself to is the metal case, of all things. What about once I'm putting sensitive electronics into that case? Couldn't the charge travel through the metal to a chip? And if I just need to ground myself through the case, couldn't I just touch it very frequently? Note that I will definitely be moving back and forth across a room (with a wood floor btw) to read instructions on another computer screen.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 5:37 pm        Reply with quote

FUCK. Newegg canceled the order for my sound card because they "discovered" that it's out of stock. After all that hassle! I'm getting really annoyed. What am I going to do for a sound card now?

I don't suppose it's fairly simply to add a sound card to an already-built computer?
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 6:42 pm        Reply with quote

I'm going to drop the sound card. It'd cost $50-$60 to get one locally, I figure I can add one anytime later, and reviews say my motherboard has really good onboard sound. So maybe I just saved $35 and won't feel that anything is missing when I plug in those headphones.

This is a great deal if you're a COSTCO member (my dad is, so I'll use his card). $2.95 mouse pad, shipping included, 2-3 days from time of order.

I still don't know what to do about static grounding. Fucking nobody carries these wrist straps, including non-franchised local computer hardware stores.

All my stuff just shipped from newegg! I can finally relax a little. I just have to worry about the static and a router.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 6:56 pm        Reply with quote

Okay. This really nice guy at a local electronics store told me I can find a wrist strap at Best Buy. He even pegged the price -- $12 "for no reason" -- and I called Best Buy to confirm. Yes. I don't mind the cost; it's about the same as newegg + shipping, and I was starting to feel desperate.

It was so nice to talk to a reasonable human being for once at that electronics store. When I said that I couldn't find one at Radio Shack, he said "of course. Radio Shack doesn't have anything."

So everything should be fine for me now. I just need to sort out getting a router locally through craigslist, and then every single thing will be accounted for, at last.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 7:11 pm        Reply with quote

Yeah! Right on! Okay! Phew. I've never bought anything from Craigslist, so I didn't know what this would be like. So I called this guy who is around 45 minutes away from me by car. He seemed pretty nice, he says he's still got the router, he confirmed that it's a router and not a switch (his ad says "router switch"), and we've agreed to meet halfway-ish Thursday evening.

PRICE IS $10.

Even if I had to drive all the way down to him, I'd be happy with that.

The router, by the way, is a Netgear MR314 Wireless Router. Though a router's a router, as I understand it. Edit: Hey, this sounds like a pretty good router.

So everything's in order now, as long as nothing else goes wrong.

I'm basically going to be following this guide when I go to build on Friday. If anyone has a problem with those instructions, can recommend better ones, or wants to suggest specific procedure, I'm all ears. This journey is nearing its destination--which itself is the start of a brand new adventure.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 7:50 pm        Reply with quote

I would like to clarify one thing that's not in those instructions: about the thermal compound stuff.

I'll slot the processor into the motherboard, then drip three dabs of the compound directly onto the top surface of the processor, and then apply the heat sink. Is that correct?
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Panoptic



Joined: 05 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:26 pm        Reply with quote

Typically, the less you use, the better. You want the thinnest layer possible that covers the most surface area. I typically put a drop or two on the CPU then use my finger with a plastic bag or something covering it to spread it across the entire surface of the CPU's heat spreader.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:51 pm        Reply with quote

Is the CPU's "heat spreader" simply the top surface of the processor?

I guess my main worry is whether the stuff can be harmful if it comes into contact with anything it's not supposed to. Like, what if I put a little too much on and it drips down the side a bit? What if some gets onto the surface of the motherboard?
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Panoptic



Joined: 05 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 10:03 pm        Reply with quote

Yeah, it's the piece of metal that covers the top of the die. The processor itself is smaller than a penny.

The stuff doesn't conduct electricity very well, so it's not a huge deal if you get it on something, but it's a bitch to clean up. If you follow my method, the excess goop will stay on your finger/plastic/whatever and it won't squeeze out and make a mess. Also note that the processor you're getting actually has a little door that closes over the chip itself, so you'd have to have significantly more compound than you need on there for it to do anything. Just remember - you only need enough to cover it, you don't need a big glob on there.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 11:03 pm        Reply with quote

Okay, I can do that. I'll use whatever (probably antistatic) bag that the processor comes in to apply the stuff. So it goes on the top of the chip, and then the door closes over that, and then the heatsink goes on top of the door.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 1:06 am        Reply with quote

Okay, I've got my antistatic wrist strap. So if I work on a (clean) wood floor and attach myself to my case, everything will be safe? It just seems weird that the case, in which I will be putting computer chips throughout, is safe to use for grounding.

internisus wrote:
Okay, I can do that. I'll use whatever (probably antistatic) bag that the processor comes in to apply the stuff. So it goes on the top of the chip, and then the door closes over that, and then the heatsink goes on top of the door.


I just had a new thought: would I want to put the thermal compound on top of the little door after I close it and before I place the heat sink on top of that? Seems like it's an opportunity for a second layer of thermal lubricant.


Last edited by internisus on Wed Mar 19, 2008 1:10 am; edited 1 time in total
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shrugtheironteacup
man of tomorrow


Joined: 06 Dec 2006
Location: a meat

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 1:08 am        Reply with quote

The computer I put together before this one was built by me in a robe sitting on shag carpet and I've never seen an anti-static wrist strap.

Go crazy man.
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Toptube
Anti-cabbage Party Candidate


Joined: 23 Apr 2007

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 1:31 am        Reply with quote

the method for applying thermal paste is to use about 2/3 a grain of rice dolloped right in the middle of the processor.

apply heatsink/fan.

this way there is no risk of too much or side drippage or even spreading it too thing.(if it squeezes out over the sides, you put on waaay too much) it will also "seal" as there will be very little chance of air getting trapped in since the goo will be forced to displace outwards. less is more. covering the ENTIRE top of the CPU is not what's important. What's important is getting the center 80% or so.

or you could read the Mac Book pro assembly manual and put on like a whole oz of the stuff per chip :P
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Panoptic



Joined: 05 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 2:09 am        Reply with quote

Never been a fan of that method, myself. The mounting bracket for the 775 chips also doesn't seem to me like it'd apply enough pressure to squeeze the compounding into a layer thin enough for the best heat conduction, but that may just be me. Just make sure that if you get an aftermarket cooler that the bottom is nice and flat before using that method. Either way, the goal is a very thin layer of compound - and remember to wipe the thermal pad crap off the bottom of the factory heat sink if you use it.
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Sushi K



Joined: 08 Dec 2007

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 2:20 am        Reply with quote

shrugtheironteacup wrote:
The computer I put together before this one was built by me in a robe sitting on shag carpet and I've never seen an anti-static wrist strap.

Go crazy man.


In all my years of electronics work I have never fried a chip with static.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 2:23 am        Reply with quote

Panoptic wrote:
remember to wipe the thermal pad crap off the bottom of the factory heat sink if you use it.


So the factory heat sink will come with thermal stuff already that I need to wipe off before applying my own? What's the best way to clean it off? I wouldn't want to just use lysol on a thing that's going to rest on top of my CPU.
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Panoptic



Joined: 05 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 3:04 am        Reply with quote

Isopropyl alcohol, diluted with water (don't need to dilute it further if it's 70% or below. Pure alcohol leaves a residue). Just wet a paper towel or something and it should wipe off fairly easily.
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google



Joined: 08 Feb 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 3:23 am        Reply with quote

Right, boys - I just bought this:

Samsung 2220WM 22IN Widescreen LCD Monitor Glossy Black Finish 1680X1050 1000:1 5MS VGA DVI Speakers
Environmental Fee $12.00 Per Item 26613 $269.99 $269.99

Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 3.5IN 500GB SATA2 8.5MS 7200RPM 32MB Cache NCQ Hard Drive 27144 $120.00 $120.00

EVGA E-GEFORCE 8800GT 600MHZ 512MB 1.8GHZ DDR3 PCI-E Dual DVI-I HDTV Out Video Card *IR-$20* 27704 $239.99 $239.99

1 x Far Cry (PC Game)

Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000 Keyboard & Optical Mouse Set USB OEM *With System Parts Only* 16619 $28.86 $28.86

AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ Dual Core Processor Socket AM2 2.6GHZ Retail Black Box No HSF Unlocked 25878 $104.20 $104.20

I'm concerned about my processor choice - I currently have an Athlon 64 3800 processor;

a) will I notice the difference
b) will my MOBO take it?

How do I find which MOBO I have? I cant seem to find it in device manager...
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Sushi K



Joined: 08 Dec 2007

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 3:32 am        Reply with quote

google wrote:

b) will my MOBO take it?

How do I find which MOBO I have? I cant seem to find it in device manager...

http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php
Use that to tell you your processor socket type, then compare with what you just bought, if they are different then you are SOL.

My guess is unless you bought that MoBo in the last year to six months not a chance.
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google



Joined: 08 Feb 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 4:22 am        Reply with quote

Apparently my processor currently is 'socket AM2 (940)' which looks to be the same size as the one I'm buying...

Does that look right?
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shnozlak



Joined: 05 Dec 2006
Location: pushing crates in the sewer level

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 4:51 am        Reply with quote

Been wanting to build my own space efficient plexy case for a micro ATX with careful ducting to reduce the need for fans. External power supply, ect ect.

I just designed one for 340 (-35 in rebates)
should work nicely if I get that stimulus-package check I keep hearing about.

HD 250gb sata 70$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136055

Micro ATX AMD mother board 50$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813135049

Asus Geforce 8500GT 256 MB 75$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121094

Roswil 500wat PSU 49$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182009

2gig DDR2 Gskill ram 45$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231098

AMD athlon 64X2 2.1GHZ 60$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103774

zahlman fan 46$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118223
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Toptube
Anti-cabbage Party Candidate


Joined: 23 Apr 2007

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 5:48 am        Reply with quote

Panoptic wrote:
Never been a fan of that method, myself. The mounting bracket for the 775 chips also doesn't seem to me like it'd apply enough pressure to squeeze the compounding into a layer thin enough for the best heat conduction, but that may just be me. Just make sure that if you get an aftermarket cooler that the bottom is nice and flat before using that method. Either way, the goal is a very thin layer of compound - and remember to wipe the thermal pad crap off the bottom of the factory heat sink if you use it.


well, I dunno what intel mounting brackets are like, because I've always gone AMD (yeah brothas, what up). But mechanical advantage can be pretty deceiving. With AMD, using my method, a 2/3rd to 1/2 grain of rice dollop will end up in between the size of a quarter and a 50 cent piece. basically enough to draw a circle inside the square of the IHS. but yeah, both methods work fine. the whole air bubble thing is nitpicky shit. if its thin and minimal, that's what's important.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:43 pm        Reply with quote

I got a whole bunch of stuff from NewEgg today. The 9600 says right on the box that it requires 26 amps on the +12 rail, and since I don't have that, I'm a little worried.
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Panoptic



Joined: 05 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:36 pm        Reply with quote

I would assume that just means the computer needs to have that capacity in order to support the card, not that the card itself will take that kind of power. 312 watts (12V * 26A) would be an enormous amount of power for just a video card. Also, hell. Even some of the biggest power supplies out there run 20A per rail (over multiple rails).

My system, with a Core 2 Quad @ 3.6, 2 i-RAM's, 2 hard drives, and an 8800GT video card pulls about 210 watts idle, and I've seen it climb to the mid/upper 300 watt range with the CPU fully loaded (just got a UPS with a watt meter about a week ago) - fairly sure you'll be fine.


Last edited by Panoptic on Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:41 pm        Reply with quote

Well, what worries me is rather that the card explicitly has a stated requirement of 26A on the +12V rail independent of other factors, including total available wattage. On the other hand, it does claim to need 400W, and people who have been having problems with the card seem to have figured out that PSUs aren't the issue:

Quote:
Maybe there is a bad batch of cards or something. I've been checking the thread as well but I can't offer anything really. I have the BFG 9600 GT OC card and I've overclocked it on top of the stock oc.

You can see the difference in my oc here.
http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/8x9cg/

But as the other poster replied, My dell psu is 375w pushing only 18amps on the 12v rail (I have only 1 rail). So it's a bit odd that I've overclocked this much over factory but have none of the mentioned problems. I've played cod4 a least the past 6 hours and not a single issue at all.


[bold added] So I guess I should relax and hope for the best. I won't actually be building until Friday because I've got work to get out of the way and am still downloading an OS.

Should I get hold of any software to control and/or monitor my hardware? I've seen mention of programs that do stuff like control fan speeds. Obviously, after a period of making sure everything's okay, when I go into overclocking, I'll get some stuff, but I'm wondering if there aren't utilities that will be helpful right away.


Last edited by internisus on Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:47 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Panoptic



Joined: 05 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:43 pm        Reply with quote

Yeah... haven't read every single post here, but I'm assuming someone noted that your power supply has more than one 12V rail?
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:54 pm        Reply with quote

Oh, man. You're right, I'm acting like a complete tit. Toptube explained that it's a new format, but I didn't fully understand because I failed to note the second designated 12V rail in this picture:



And combined, that's 34A. So as long as I can connect things such that the video card can make use of both rails, it should be fine. Sorry; I'm going to leave this stuff alone for the next two days.
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Toptube
Anti-cabbage Party Candidate


Joined: 23 Apr 2007

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:01 pm        Reply with quote

internisus wrote:
So as long as I can connect things such that the video card can make use of both rails, it should be fine.


you don't need to connect things in any special way. Just plug it in. Video Cards have their own dedicated PCI-E power plug.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:09 pm        Reply with quote

Well, alright then. I'll just cross my fingers that I got one of the 9600s that doesn't consistently shut down the computer after an hour of gaming.

I haven't opened the C2D inner packaging--the plastic housing--but it's totally not what I expected. I can't even see a chip in there! There's a big, tall, fan-like thing. I dunno what's going on. I think I'll read the manual.

The motherboard is so cool. It's the kind of thing I've always entertained as the imagined ideal appearance for a computer chip. Lots of small but discernible and recognizable parts/areas.

Hard drive is wrapped up tight with the thermal stuff and the DVD drive, and they're going to stay that way for the time being. Sure seems nice and sturdy through the three inches of bubble wrap, though.

RAM is cute.

The case is a case. It has a power unit. There are things that move around freely inside. One of these things is the instruction manual. They put the instruction manual inside the case. I think this is really quite funny.

I'm not opening the box with the monitor. If I do, I won't be able to get my mind off the fact that I have these computer parts sitting here waiting for me over the next two days.
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Felix
unofficial repository


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: vancouver

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:16 pm        Reply with quote

the "fan thing" is a heat sink. the CPU is, quite literally, a chip.
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Toptube
Anti-cabbage Party Candidate


Joined: 23 Apr 2007

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:20 pm        Reply with quote

Felix wrote:
the "fan thing" is a heat sink. the CPU is, quite literally, a chip.


yeah, be really damn careful you don't bend the pins.

you'll see.

just pretend its a tiny just born kitty.
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Panoptic



Joined: 05 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:28 pm        Reply with quote

Toptube wrote:
Felix wrote:
the "fan thing" is a heat sink. the CPU is, quite literally, a chip.


yeah, be really damn careful you don't bend the pins.

you'll see.

just pretend its a tiny just born kitty.


The 775's have contact points son. Pins are on the mobo. I'll forgive that one since you're an AMD guy though.
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Toptube
Anti-cabbage Party Candidate


Joined: 23 Apr 2007

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 11:37 pm        Reply with quote

Panoptic wrote:
Toptube wrote:
Felix wrote:
the "fan thing" is a heat sink. the CPU is, quite literally, a chip.


yeah, be really damn careful you don't bend the pins.

you'll see.

just pretend its a tiny just born kitty.


The 775's have contact points son. Pins are on the mobo. I'll forgive that one since you're an AMD guy though.


Ahh, that's cool. Yeah last time I saw a nekkid Intel was in the days of Pentium 4 when a friend of mine built a system.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 5:31 am        Reply with quote

I just got done acquiring Win XP Pro w/ integrated SP2. The instructions state:

Quote:
After install is completed, boot your system into safe mode and run AntiWPA3.cmd that is located in the ETH0WPA.Crack dir on the cd. Read the readme.txt for more info about the crack.

Latest WGA crack in ETH0 dir


Does anyone know anything about this? For instance, what is WGA?
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Sushi K



Joined: 08 Dec 2007

PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 5:42 am        Reply with quote

internisus wrote:
I just got done acquiring Win XP Pro w/ integrated SP2. The instructions state:

Quote:
After install is completed, boot your system into safe mode and run AntiWPA3.cmd that is located in the ETH0WPA.Crack dir on the cd. Read the readme.txt for more info about the crack.

Latest WGA crack in ETH0 dir


Does anyone know anything about this? For instance, what is WGA?


Windows Genuine Advantage

Microsoft won't patch your PC and will nerf it if it isn't a legit copy. This is a way around that.

Not that I have ever pirated Windows, I just mess with it all day at work.
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Panoptic



Joined: 05 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 2:53 pm        Reply with quote

You could just use a white-listed key, which will pass WGA. Personally, I use the Corporate edition of XP, which doesn't require activation, crack or not. With that method, you just have to make sure to watch what updates it downloads so WGA doesn't come in without you noticing.
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internisus
shafer sephiroth


Joined: 04 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 4:59 pm        Reply with quote

Well, the thing did come with a key in addition to having this WGA crack on the disc. Dunno what white-listed means.
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Panoptic



Joined: 05 Dec 2006

PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 5:01 pm        Reply with quote

A lot of businesses and schools use certain keys meant for licensing systems en masse - these keys provide full functionality, and will pass activation regardless of duplicates out there with the same key.
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