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Help me plan to buy computer parts

 
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 8:53 pm        Reply with quote

Ok, hey I hope no one minds or is sick of this yet, but I want to jump in. I'm bascially thinking of doing the same thing since I'm leaving my job in a week and will need a Desktop.

I haven't built a desktop since '99 so I know a lot of things have changed. Not including a monitor/keyboard/mouse I want to put together a PC for $600-700 that can run most games released through this year at very high speeds (not necessarily Maxed setting, but very high quality) at good frame rates (60fps for online, 30fps+ for single player). I also want to be able to fill at least the "minimum requirements" for most games (barring shit that comes out of left field that requires sick specs) for the next 2 years. I'm not talking future-proof, but I want to be able to dabble and stay relatively current, you know?

I don't want to mess around with overclocking because I have a bad history with it. I'm also not a memory hog for hdd, I could be very comfortable with 250gb, and honestly can't see a need for much more.

Any recomendations would be awesome, and I would really appreciat it. If you guys want I can split this off into another thread if you think it would be too confusing, but it seems like intern is done.

OH! One other thing: I want to be able to run everything released up through 2003 at like a million frames per second (i.e. rock fucking solid) at Max resolution (especailly shit from the HL1 engine and Quake 1-3 and shit). I know that's probably a given, but perhaps theirs certain graphics cards that don't do so well with older games. Also, I like ATI better since being burned a few times with Nvidia upgrading and ditching my card for the dust too quickly in the 90's.
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 4:50 pm        Reply with quote

Felix wrote:
shaper, go ahead and read through this topic; given the few requirements you've set, i'd say my advice is more than generalizable to your needs, and this topic is actually pretty readable overall given the subject matter.

Oh, I have, actually a couple times. I was hoping for some tips on where to save/trim on a little cash. And some specifics of parts/brands.
dhex wrote:
shaper: i would say go for a dx10 card and a vista/xp dual boot. on the other hand, i would say relax and just go with the flow, yo. (if anything older games might run too fast - hl2 with everything maxed to fuck and back on my 7800gt is almost too floaty at times.)

Uh... I really, really don't want to get into Vista for at least another year, and longer if I have to. I have like 5 copies of XP I could install on my PC and I'd like to milk that as long as I can.

Since you mention it, how do you regulate "too fast"? Is that something you can do?

Say I were to get a dx10 card, what is awesome and keeping in my pricerange.
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 6:37 pm        Reply with quote

Panoptic wrote:
Also, the 8800GT 256MB and 512MB come out in about a week, for $200 and $250 respectively, and they haul some ass. At stock clocks they're about halfway between an 8800GTS and 8800GTX, and I bet they'd pass the GTX if you were willing to overclock.

Is there any _major benefit_ to the extra 256MB on these? Also, when you say "about a week" is this based on rumor or news? I'm curious, because I'll probably hold off and get the 8800GT 256mb if it really is coming out next month sometime (I can hold off until about the 17th, when I really need to order the parts to get to my location on time).

Basically, using Crysis as some kind of sick current benchmark, how well does it look like the 8800GT 256mb will run the game (assuming a duo/double/2 core cpu)? And what kind of difference could I expect upgrading for the extra fifty clams?

EDIT: Where is the PSU really needed for? The cpu or the graphics card? This is honestly the thing that I don't grasp the most. What's the minimum PSU I should be looking at here for the system I'm buying. I mean minimum as in "I don't recommend going any lower even though you probably could".
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 7:34 pm        Reply with quote

Panoptic wrote:
So, if driving the described system at full load with two hard drives and two optical drives, plus a few USB devices, it'd be safe to say that you'd need a reasonably efficient 600W PSU to be covered.

Um, wow, ok, that a hell of a lot more watts than I expected. I was looking at a 400W PSU thinking that would be enough. Also, how do you monitor the temp in your case? This seems like something that's pretty vauge outside of these cases with gauges on them.

EDIT: Note that I will only have 1HDD and 1 Optical drive most likely. Also, I will not be overclocking.

EDIT 2: Looking at new egg, it seems like you CAN buy that card (the 512mb version) but higher than the prices you're stating.
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:44 pm        Reply with quote

Ok, I think I have my system built. Here’s what I got so far, and let me know if I’m missing anything (dear god I hope not because I’m over what I wanted to spend anyways):

Case: Apevia X-QPack2-BL. 99$
MoBo: (open box) ASUS Micro ATX Intel Motherboard. $35
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo 2.2GHz. $127
Graphics Card: GIGABYTE GeForce 8800GT 512MB. $270
Memory: Transcend JETRAM 2GB (2x1GB) (PC2 6400). $50
HDD: Western Digital Caviar SE 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s. $65
Optical: SAMSUNG 20X DVDR Burner Black. $28

Total: $673.93
Shipping: $26.13
Final: $700.06

So, I’d like to save an extra $50~70 on the graphics card if they will really go down to $200, but that just seems like a shocking price point to me. Anyways, this is only _slightly_ higher than what I wanted to pay, and pretty awesome it would seem. Any recomendations on where I may have cut too many corners and should upgrade? I tried to balance price and quality (lowest price for acceptable quality).

Anyways, *most importantly*, like, all this shit will fit together and then be a fully working PC when I turn it on (and have the drivers and an OS and all that) right? That’s what it seems like to me, but I may have missed something.

EDIT: Oh shit! I got approved as a newegg.com preferred account and that no payments for 6 months ends TODAY. Damnit. I may have to PHONE some motherfuckers to make sure this is an OK deal.
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 9:03 pm        Reply with quote

Panoptic wrote:
The motherboard... a VIA chipset isn't going to give you the best performance. Try to shimmy a board with either an Intel or Nvidia chipset in there, if you can. Otherwise, looks good.

So, like, can you recommend something? I'm a bit flexable.
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 4:42 pm        Reply with quote

Toptube wrote:
also, the 8800GT can be found for as low as $230.

check the HOTDEALS section at www.hardforum.com. its at the bottom of the forum list. and you don't need a membership to see it.

The sale is dead! But I'm going to use newegg for everything because of the line of credit being the only way I can get these things.

Anyways, thanks for the urgent help yesterday guys. I ended up holding off a bit as I want to make double sure that everything will fit together and perhaps hope for a small price drop in the gfx card. The thing is that I'm not going to really be able to put it together until around Nov. 15th (I don't have and XP discs for install, but my dad has a ton) and I'd rather make sure that everything fits perfectly together before purchase.
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 7:19 pm        Reply with quote

The 8800GT keeps selling out (and going up in price). I'm going to hold off until one comes in, but I check multiple times a day and even the over $300 are selling within hours. I'm starting to panic, but it helps that I can't even build this thing until the 18th anyways.

Anyways, why does Newegg keep droping everything out of my basket?
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 7:38 pm        Reply with quote

Panoptic wrote:
I think they dump inactive shopping carts after 48 hours.

I'm just glad that I posted my shopping cart here, it's saving me some time.

Also, are all the 8800GT sizes going to be the same? I'm having a hard time figuring out if all this is going to fit into that case I want. Any help in that department would be appreciated.
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 10:19 pm        Reply with quote

Toptube wrote:
if you have any questions about owning an SFF computer though, check out these two threads

n00b question: what's SFF?

Also, yeah, I'm ok with replacing the Power Supply down the road if it's causing issues. I do not have any plans at all to overclock anything, so yeah, I'm not too worried about it.

Also, you're saying that the 8800GT will fit in the case I'm buying right? That's perfect.
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 7:52 pm        Reply with quote

Ok, might as well update the thread with my final, final list sans videocard (because they don't exist and sell out w/in 5 min of me getting notified they're in stock):

Case: X-Qpack2-BL
MoBo: GIGABYTE GA-945GCMX-S2 LGA 775 Intel 945GC Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E4500 Allendale 2.2GHz
Memory: Transcend JETRAM 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
HDD:
Western Digital Caviar SE 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM

Optical: LG Electronics Black LG Super Multi 18x SATA DVD Burner
Compound: Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM

I bumped up a few things because I figure it's better to do once what I have a decent probability of doing in the future. It totals out to $461.93 and when I add in the GFX card it's probably going to end up at about $750. It's a bit more than I wanted to spend initially, but at least I know i'm in for quality items that will all fit. I'm pretty happy with the package, now if I could just get the damn videocard.
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 10:14 pm        Reply with quote

Toptube wrote:
get arctic silver ceramique.

Any particular reason? It seems like it's cheaper (cost) and not as highly rated by customers, and as far as I can tell that's the only difference. The extra dollar doesn't scare me, so I can't see a reason to change unless there's something I'm missing.
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 10:08 pm        Reply with quote

I... uh, didn't know I'd need to "change" this stuff. I figured it was a one application and you're done thing.

Also, anyone care to speculate on when the 8800GT will be in stock at newegg again? EVGA seems to be "back ordered" and... everyone else is pretty much trying to rob you (and they can't even keep their stock). If this were consoles I'd say it will take a month, but I don't know shit about PC parts and their average demand.
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 9:31 pm        Reply with quote

Again, the reason I was waiting online was because of the credit line I opened at NewEgg. I put most of the 8800GT cards on my autonotify and just *happen* to look at my email right as the one I just bought came available! I got the PNY GeForce 8800GT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0. I'm happy overall and glad it's finally done and that it's all on the same line of credit. I don't have anything to pay until like June, and I'll have all the cash I need by January anyways.

So, next comes a monitor. I have something to hold me over until December or so, but after that I'll need something. I'm looking for something kind of large if I can, but I don't want to pay more than $250 (including shipping). I'm also very sensitive to color and contrast and refresh, and all that shit. I notice video quality problems that other people mostly overlook/ignore/don't notice. Any recommendations?

What I've seen so far is pretty much:

Acer AL2223Wd Black-Silver 22" 5ms DVI Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 800:1
It has the lowest contrast ratio and delay time I'm willing to go with, it's large and it offers a pretty high customer satisfaction rating.

SAMSUNG 906BW Black 19" 2 ms (GTG) DVI Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 2000:1
This one is a bit smaller, and I'm pretty sure that 2000:1 is a dynamic contrast ratio, but it has an excellent response time and I've had lots of excellent customer support and quality products from Samsung. I'd like a bigger monitor, but it doesn't look like a possibility without shelling out quite a bit more.

BenQ FP94VW Silver-Black 19" 2ms (GTG) DVI Widescreen HDMI LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 800:1
This one is also a bit smaller, with an excellent response time, and I'm pretty sure a better contrast ratio. I've heard decent things about BenQ too.

Anyways, am I missing stuff, should I just make a small price bump and go with the larger monitor? Also is the screen resolution going to make that big a difference for this graphics card (outside of shit like Crysis)?
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 9:46 pm        Reply with quote

Can you give me more information on the "washed out" colors? I only ask because I have a 27" Westinghouse HDTV that I bought for my bedroom that I thought would be decent, but the colors being washed out are so bad that I kind of hate watching anything seriously on it. That could ruin the sale for me.

EDIT: The more I read about that Acer, the more I think I would fall into the catagory of the 3 egg and below users. That kind of stuff really irks me as I'm a mild videophile (not quite the level of thatbox, but probably more than many other people here).
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Shapermc
crawling in his skin


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Chicago via St. Louis

PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 5:02 am        Reply with quote

Toptube wrote:
**actually, it seems that you can't get a better panel than a tn---at all, unless you are willing to spend like $350 or more.

TN? I know that Samsung you linked to you called a TN, but just so I know.

Also, would you mind linking to some highly recommended 20s in my price range (I guess I can jump up to $250 w/o shipping)? I didn't seem to notice many 20"s

As another note: I don't need this to be versitile: I have two HDTV's aside; a 62" and a 32" (that westinghouse was actually a 32" that I have, it's still crap)

EDIT: Correct me if I'm wrong, but for the price this is probably the best I'll get for the best quality/size right? SAMSUNG 206BW Black 20" 2 ms (GTG) DVI Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 800:1 (DCR 3000:1)

It has a good contrast ratio, an awesome response time, and a fairly large resolution. Actually I'm a bit worried about a high resolution like that because I know that LCD montiors pretty much only look their best at their native resolution. Even though I'm getting a very good graphics card I'm worried about running things at full detail at the native resolution. Would I be better going with a 19" at a lower resolution or a 20" at a higher native and running it at a lower resolution? I'm kind of torn and leading towards the larger screen just for shit like text and graphical work which won't tax the card at all. Opinions welcome!
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